The music gently woke us up at 5.30am again this morning and we were quickly all ready to head out for the next few hours...... but first came the most glorious sunrise..... Sunrise in the Jungle! Oh that almost brings tears to my eyes just thinking about where we are and how awesome it is! By now, everyone seems to know that I will take a bunch of photos and one guy kinda 'guess-tamates' and then asks me later with a grin all over his face.... cheecky sod he is, I will have to set him straight somewhere along the way.
There are 4 tour guides on the boat... Ian, the cheeky sod, is only on his second run but the others have been doing this for years. They have so much knowledge and are so keen to share it in a way that makes it all seem real and touchable. They really are a great group of guys and all come along on our trips each day, so we all get the benefit of their combined knowledge. We are not divided into groups at all, it all just flows naturally when we walk around places and when we are in the motorized canoe we all take different seats each day so there is no clique-forming like that. It's good to see how everyone on here gets on well together - no nonsense and no drama at all.
Every night after supper we have a 'briefing' where one of the guides will go over what we have done that day, shows us on a map where we have been and where we will go the next day. Some days require wellies/rubber boots and others, just casual shoes - so we get all this information every evening. And thats when they tell us what time is wake up call. I really would not mind a 4am wake up call if it is so that we could see more of this place - and that really says something :) Tomorrow we are going to visit a school and in the briefing we are told things like not to take photos of the people or their kids until specifically told that its ok to do so. I can imagine that it must be quite horrible to get a group of people coming into your community, happily snapping photos as if you are in a zoo. So this meeting each night is important to retain the dignity of the people as well as the fauna and flora of the area.
Yesterday we walked at the eastern most point of Ecuador......the Peruvian border was just across the river - and today we passed a place where the flagpoles of the two countries stand side by side, guide ropes even overlapping, on the same side of one of the tributaries. Of course, according to the guides, the Ecuadorian Flag was prettier and in much better conditon - it definately was! We are still really close to Peru and despite what we were warned about by a few people before coming here, there are absolutely no safety issues here any different from at home. Be aware, be careful and be sensible and most of all, respect the inhabitants.
We went into the Yasuni National Park today which is on a small river - the Yasuni river, that runs off the Napo river. Again we had to check in with them, give our passport numbers and get permission to go on through. The smaller rivers, the tributaries off the Napo River, are just glorious. There we sit in this long canoe, four people wide, but only two on each bench, slowly and gently winding our way down these awesome places. Around each corner the view changes, the trees and shrubs are different and the reflections are just stunning. There is much gentle talking amongst everyone and the guides have a phenomenal way of spotting birds and other wildlife. I have to say that we dont see much other than birds here - its too thick to walk far into the jungle apart from on set paths and the birds even are pretty shy about sticking around to be photographed. But sitting there in that canoe, gently bobbing around while listening to the monkeys and birds chatter away and very often spotting them up in the trees, is just beyond anything I have known.
Today there were thousands of butterflies and dragonflies all around - my favorite is still that Blue Morpho that wafts its way magically across the greenery - there is no way to miss it at all. There were a good many places along the Yasuni River that the butterflies collected in huge flocks, seeming to bounce around in a delegated area. Apparently they feed of the moisture of the eyes of the terrapins, but they - the terrapins - quickly disappear when they hear us, leaving the butterflies bouncing around not sure what the heck happened! It was quite amazing to see that time and time again. For all of this morning we could look in any direction and we would see a good many butterflies, some seeming to race us in the canoe, other just wafting across to see who and what we were and then heading off again - but all very beautiful.
And at the end of this river is a lake - its official name is something that I cannot begin to spell but it means "Big Lake", and it was. We were fortunate enough that the floating islands did not block our path to the lake as it apparently does - but we had enough space to squeeze through. These floating islands move quite a bit apparently and there are a few newly growing ones around there too. Anyway, so in we squeezed and were almost instantly met by more pink dolphins.....they can manoever all up and down these rivers with no problem, but tend to stay in the lakes - cant say I blame them at all. We meandered around this huge open space, almost stunned as to just how fast the thick jungle growth and tall trees had been replaced by green floating grass, the occasional tree dotted here and there and water everywhere..... We also saw some rare bird that is near extinction and it has a horn on it head - and not a short one either - a good many inches apparently.. I must look at it again tomorrow,
We pulled off again to a solid ground spot and the guys got the poop-tent out again and in a short time the little blue house was ready. I just could not bring myself to use it and had to laugh at even the fact that I would feel uncomfortable using it. I did not go wandering off in the wrong direction again today but stayed near the river's edge and then noticed a clump of butterflies bouncing around an old fireplace....... so I got a good many photos of those - alone with that screamingly funny little blue poop house...
The level of the water had fallen in the lake and it was only 6 foot deep and we were told that it was not a good idea to swim as there would be a lot of the muck kicked up from the bottom and that was not good.... so we headed back to the Manatee again. I really love being out and seeing the new places, but there is also something about it when that canoe is kicked into a higher gear, when that glorious smile appears on the drivers face and the spray from the bow reaches high as we lean this way and that way, zigzagging across the river on our way back home. It's cooler, its fun and its really great. There is no straight path on the river as there are way too many trees and shallow areas, so its a constant zigzagging across all the rivers we go on - big and small. I love it.
We got back to the boat to an absolutely glorious lunch today - out on the upper deck outside with a totally open view of the river.... the food was delicious and the weather played along just perfectly. The captain came to sit at our table - its really very casual and he does the rounds, or just grabs a chair wherever there is a spare one. We had true Ecuadorian food and a good and cold Pilsner beer to go along with it. And then back to the cabin where we each snoozed for almost two hours! Now that was fantastic and also the first time that I have not been outside with my camera while it has been light.
Then off we went to a river island for a walkaround on the sandy beaches there. This was a good sized island with very young vegetation. The capybaras apparently come across to feed on the tender plants and there are some birds that only live on these islands and not in the 'old forests''. We saw a good many footprints of deer and capybara and probably some pigs too, but not much in the way of wildlife at all. The bird-people saw a few birds but not too many and will try again tomorrow on a different island down the river somewhere. It was lovely to walk barefoot in the sand and Frank headed out to find a stick to walk with - funny how he always does that, often picking up, trying, discarding and trying other sticks until the right one just fits. I dont know that he even realises that he is looking for the perfect one until it just happens along... then off he goes with that ever present smile. And so it was today. We walked in the water but were told to be careful of the stingrays, so we headed to the grassed section to see what we could see and then back on the sandy parts. There were tadpoles in the river - bunches of them! Its been ages since I have seen tadpoles and these were really good and healthy looking ones too.
All the while, the storm clouds were buiding, giving a beautiful thunderous blue to the sky and a richness and light to the green everywhere that just lit it all up - absolutely lovely for photos. Just beautiful. the quiet on that island was total. We could hear just the water as it brushed up against the edge of the sand.... And then we were given a beautiful full rainbow, all the way across the sky. We could even see where it stopped right in the water! I wished aloud that the Manatee Amazon Explorer would catch up with us and head right through that rainbow...... but everyone agreed that Photoshop would have to work its magic and that I would have to 'make it happen' on the computer instead. Well - the rainbow got stronger, and yes! There came the Manatee around the corner! There was this collection of gasps as everyone realized what I was doing as I set off at a run to get the right angle and a few joined in, trying to get there first..... a good moment. And so it all came together.... the rainbow, the river and the Manatee..... By then, everyone had found their place and the cameras clicked away so much that there was much laughter. My camera and lens setup is a baby by comparison to some of these here and there are some truly magnificant photos being born around here. That was really one of the lovely moments of the trip.
Right before all this came together, the rain set in so everyone hauled out their standard black issued ponchos with hoods, and quickly covered themselves and their camera and telescopes up. I had a special plastic bag for my camera and Frank and I had decided that we would not carry the ponchos with us as it was a short excusion and they are heavy, so we yanked out our standard jackets, me holding mine over the camera, even with the plastic bag and we walked in the rain! Oh it was just wonderful and we got totally soaked by a genuine Ecuadorian Amazonian Rainstorm.. does that not just sound awesome or what??....And then I looked up and saw this crowd of about 20 people, all with black cloaks and pointy hoods on, milling around in one spot a good way away from us..... they looked like huge bats! More pictures, more laughs.
And then it was time to catch up with the Manatee again for supper and some relaxing time... I just love reconnecting with the Manatee - its kind of like refuelling in the air for airplanes - no need to stop, just hook up, watch you step and go on your way to a cleaned cabin, cooked food, cold beer, good company and a continual great view.....The day ended with another totally beautiful sunset over the jungle, with us tied up to a tree alongside the banks again, a small tug boat behind us - thats another story - and the sounds of the jungle nightlife right ourside our window - I mean literally about 8 feet away! Its just awesome..
Tomorrow is the school and community visit and an optional river island visit again... I know where we are going :)
Till then
love and light
Annie
1 comment:
Annie.....I am not getting any photos......do I have to join phtobucket to see your pictures?
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